Yesterday, a demonstration in support of the opposition activists in Idlib. From the hilltop citadel, we could hear downtown's crowds a half mile or so below chanting as they marched. Buses of European tourists came and went, carrying with them conversations in German, Italian, French. We posed for family photos. Smiled and laughed. The Dead Sea was next, I overheard a British woman say. She hoped its mud might help reduce a scar "just there" at the base of her elbow. Such marks, I thought, are too easy to conceal.